Cycling tips-100 best bikes-riding tips for bikers
Want to be a better biker? Just ride it. Every time you turn the pedal, you will naturally raise a little bit.
Of course, a good cycling tips, trick, or some wisdom can help you achieve something you may not learn in a few years. From my cycling book, 1,100 tips for the best moments, this is the generous intellectual help from the most skilled and knowledgeable coaches, physiologists and cyclists in the world.
Ride position and speed faster
No. 1 Avoid muscle soreness and fatigue. Don’t shrug your shoulders. Tilt your head every few minutes to avoid tight neck muscles. Even better: stop and admire the scenery.
No. 2 By sliding back or forward on the saddle, you can emphasize different muscle groups. This pair of long crawls serves as a way to rest various muscles, while others are responsible for this work. Moving forward emphasizes the quadriceps, while moving backward emphasizes the hamstrings and gluteal muscles. Don’t forget to take a break occasionally and stand a few pedals.
No. 3 If you are not used to taking your two hands off the bar, warm your arm with your other hand and use your teeth to pull the wrapped cloth from your wrist.
No.4 Don’t move your upper body too much. Let your back act as a fulcrum and your bike swings back and forth under it.
No. 5 Put your shoulders behind the front axle. Too much weight forward makes the bicycle difficult to maneuver and may cause the rear wheels to jump into the air.
No. 6 Uses a rowing motion to pull up the railing to counter the strength of the legs. This helps to transfer your energy to the pedal instead of becoming a wasteful exercise.
No. 7 If you have no chance to slow down the obstacles, such as rails or potholes, quickly pull up the handlebars to improve your front wheels. You may also damage the rear wheel, or it may be pinched, but you can prevent the front wheel from being hit and causing a collision.
No. 8 Crawled around on the saddle carefully, hunched back when tired. Shift to a higher gear and pedal regularly to prevent stiffness in your hips and back.
No. 9 Relax your grip. On flat, traffic-free sidewalks, practice putting your hands on the handlebars. This will not only help relieve muscle tension, but will also reduce the transmission of road vibrations to your body.
No. 10 Periodically changes the position of the hand. Grab the descent or high-speed riding and brake lever cover to relax the cruise. During a long climb, grab the top of the railing, sit upright, and open your chest to make breathing easier. While standing, gently grasp the hood and gently roll the bike from side to side, synchronizing with your pedal strokes. However, be sure to keep every thumb and finger tightly closed around the hood or bar to prevent yourself from losing control if you encounter unexpected bumps.
No. 11 The width of the handlebar should be equal to the shoulder width. A wider bar opens up your chest for breathing, and the narrow one is usually aerodynamic. Choose a riding style that suits you better. Position the angle of the rod so that the bottom, flat part is parallel to the ground, otherwise the point is just slightly downward and toward the rear hub.
No. 12 If you lead a straight uphill climb, keep your rhythm and pedal pressure the same, and switch to an easier gear.
No.13 Keep your arms in line with your body instead of extending your elbows. This is an easy way to make yourself more aerodynamic and faster, with no extra energy.
No. 14 When your efforts become more difficult, increase the power of breathing instead of the frequency.
Notes on safety
No. 15 When riding in a group, always keep your hands in contact with your brakes, whether it’s dripping or on the hood. In that case, you are always ready to take your time.
No. 16 Crosses the railroad tracks on the side of the road. There is usually smoother than the middle.
No. 17 Don’t stare at the steering wheel behind, you are following a straight line. Keep your peripheral vision labeled while you look in front of a few riders and see what they are doing. If something happens to make them turn or change speed, you will be ready. A straight line is like a Slinky: the small movements in the front will be amplified and accelerated because they will flow to the back of the backpack.
No. 18 In the first 10 minutes of the heavy rain, when the oil and dust float on the surface of the road but have not been washed away, be extra careful. However: painted road lines and steel surfaces (manhole covers, grids, rails, bridge decks and expansion joints) will immediately become slippery until they are completely dry.
No. 19 Enter the lane, treat your bike as a car, and stop and go when the traffic is. In heavy traffic, you can usually move as fast as a car. If you hug the side of the road, you will be less noticeable and drivers will be attracted to you.
No. 20 Stay at a place far enough from the traffic lane to avoid being hit when the parking door opens suddenly, and pay attention to pedestrians who open the door or suddenly jump out of the car. You may hear some drivers honking their horns, and they don’t understand why you don’t pull to the right to let them pass–but the horn in your ear hurts more than a door on your face.
No. 21 When you stop at a traffic light, move to the center of your lane. This will prevent the driver from rushing forward and trap you between them and the side of the road. When the light changes, accelerate to your cruising speed, and then move to the right to let them pass.
No. 22 When you see a car parked at an intersection, pay attention to the first tip of the front wheel to move forward. If you see any, prepare to brake and shout loudly to get the driver’s attention.
No. 23 On a road with no shoulder, ride in the right wheel track of motor vehicles to ensure you don’t blend into the scenery along the edge of the road. This also gives you 3 to 4 feet of space from the edge of the pavement to let you dodge potholes or deal with wind gusts.
No. 24 Scan the rear windows of parked vehicles to find people who may suddenly drive into your lane or open the door. You can also see pedestrians coming out of cars.
No. 25 When you are on the bike lane and a car turns right in front of you, do not turn left or turn around. Take your time, stay in the lane, wait for the car to turn, and then continue driving.
No. 26 Keeps a straight line through intermittently parked cars in parallel-don’t walk through empty spaces. The driver may not be ready to make you suddenly reappear in the traffic lane.
No. 27 If you hear a metal click every time the crank rotates, please lubricate the pedal thread (tighten firmly when reinstalling).
No. 28 The squeak is emitted from the pedal instead of the chain, if it happens every stroke in the same place. For traditional pedals, spray lubrication places where the cage is connected to the body. For a scissorless pedal, clean all clean contact points, then apply silicone spray to these points and wipe off the excess. Also make sure that the clamp is tight.
4 pedals are worth clicking
No.29 The chirp almost always comes from the chain-it’s yelling. lubricating.
No. 30 If a chain is clicked, it has a close link. First, clean up your chains. Then, turn the crank backward by hand and watch the chain pass the derail wheel. The rigid link will jump. Grasp the chain on both sides of the hard chain, bend it to the side to loosen it, and then apply lubricating oil.
No. 31 If the handlebar or valve stem creaks when sprinting or climbing, tighten the adhesive bolt (front). If the noise persists, loosen the adhesive bolt, spray light lubricant between the stem and the valve stem, wipe it away, leaving a thin film, and then reuse it firmly.
No. 32 Buzzing occurs when a cage, frame pump, or other attachment vibrates, or when the cable housing vibrates on the frame. To find the culprit, touch these areas while riding, then tighten, shorten, recoat or tape as needed.
No. 33 Bell and the jingle usually come from a seat bag. Use rubber bands or rags to secure items.
No. 34 The sensation of percussion is usually as much as heard. Common causes: uneven rims and raised or incorrect seated tires.
No. 35 Clicks during saddle climbing and sprints sometimes come from the friction of two spokes. Add a drop of oil to the intersection of each spoke. (Note that the oil cannot drip down the spokes through the rim brake. If you have a disc brake, do not drip onto the disc.)
No. 36 Never trust your ears. Frame transmission noise. You might swear that a sound comes from your crank, but it might be your saddle track. Check all possible points.
No. 37 When you start to feel pressure and a heavy pace, try this breathing technique: don’t actively inhale air into your lungs, and then passively release it (our normal mode), push the air out, let It flows back naturally. Bonus: Because of how you activate your lungs to do this, it also helps you get into a lower riding position and maintain a flatter back.
No. 38 Descends on…, your bike is much more stable than when coasting.
No. 39 Whenever you transition from standing to sitting, add some inches of freedom and push the bike forward as you descend into the saddle.
No. 40 When stops, put your left foot down to prevent the greasy chain “tattoo” on your right calf.
No. 41 Generally, using the front brake to be harder than the rear is the most effective way to stop. However, on a smooth surface, difficulty in front braking can cause the front wheels to skid, which almost always leads to a collision. It is best to emphasize the rear brake. If the rear wheel locks and glides instantly, then things are much easier to control.
No. 42 Always uses your elbow, bend it slightly, and relax your arms and shoulders. This prevents fatigue caused by muscle tension. It also allows your arm to absorb the impact instead of transmitting it to your body.
No. 43 When occupying a leading position in the pacing line, do not accelerate when the current leader drops to the back. Maintain the same speed when drafting so that you don’t cause a gap between other riders.
No. 44 If the headwind finally defeats you, don’t let it ruin your day. Accept the slower speed, switch to a simple gear, and work in your pedal form and your ability to stay relaxed. (And don’t feel sad for your exhaustion: As far as the effort of riding a bicycle is concerned, a cyclist drives at 18 miles per hour in calm air and keeps this speed at a headwind of 10 mph. , You have to pay twice as much effort.)
No. 45 In order to build your confidence, start with the rider in front, and then gradually narrow the gap as your experience and abilities increase. Once you can ride comfortably within the length of a wheel, you will get most of the benefits of drafting, which can reduce the effort required to maintain a given speed as high as 35%.
No. 46 To make the wet corners less dangerous, make your rounds as shallow as possible. Set the width so that you enter a shallow angle, go straight through the turn, and then exit wide. In fact, this will transform one compact into two shallow ones.
No. 47 Occasionally took a hand off the bar and shook it. This will relax your shoulders and elbows and encourage blood flow to your hands to prevent numbness.
No. 48 For whatever reason, when riding with one hand, you must hold the top railing against the valve stem. If your hands are farther away (for example, on the brake lever cover), if the front wheel hits On rocks, collisions or potholes, the bicycle is more likely to turn into danger.
No. 49 In order to avoid muscle fatigue, learn to “float” the legs every three or four times during hard, continuous pedaling. Simply let your feet fall without exerting force.
Know how to cure a rash on the road
No. 50 Quickly reach a place where the wound can be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. If it is done within 30 minutes after the crash, it is less painful because the nerve endings are still numb and traumatic.
No. 51 In order to prevent infection and scars, please use a rough towel or soft bristle brush to scrub the wound. Use an appropriate amount of antibacterial surgical cleaning agent, such as Cybe lens or Betadine.
No. 52 Dry the wound and apply an antibacterial ointment such as neosporin (like the product mentioned above, it can be bought without a prescription).
No. 53 Use a non-stick sterile dressing (such as special hair or secondary skin. To prevent leakage on clothes or sheets, cover the dressing with a layer of absorbent gauze for the first few days.
No. 54 Changes clothes every morning and evening. Use more antibacterial ointment before bandaging the wound and check for signs of infection: tenderness, red and swollen skin, or heat. If you find any of them, please consult your doctor.
No. 55 In order to reduce scars, keep the wound moist so that a hard scab will not develop. When new skin begins to form, apply Saratoga ointment and tulle. This zinc oxide-based ointment prevents scabs. Then apply a moisturizer to the new skin for at least a week.
No. 56 When you cast a clear shadow on the road, take the opportunity to check your position-your elbows are bent, your back is flat, your knees are slightly bent at the bottom of the pedal, and your head is facing upwards. Isn’t it twisted to the neck?
No. 57 Even though you are tempted, after the hardest effort in a week, don’t take the day out completely from your bicycle. The best way to recover is a short, simple rotating rhythm of -30 to 60 minutes, which always allows for effortless conversation.
No. 58 On the intermittent traffic road, pay special attention to the crosswind on the left. You will naturally lean towards it in order to ride a straight line. Then, when a motorist passes by and temporarily blocks the wind, you may turn left into the lane and get into danger. You can prevent this from happening by anticipating and keeping your elbows and grip relaxed, so that you can react quickly to changing wind speeds and directions.
No. 59 If your floor pump is several years old, the pressure gauge may give inaccurate low readings (this will lead to greater rolling resistance and higher risk, because low inflation leads to tire inflation). By purchasing an air pressure gauge made specifically for bicycles, the price to keep the pump running is about $20.
No. 60 Gets more lives from tires by switching tires from one wheel to another. The wear rate of the rear is more than twice that of the front, so they are replaced every 500 miles or so, which greatly extends their life.
No. 61 For safety reasons, unless it is an emergency stop, do not brake on the pacing line. Doing so will slow you down, open a gap, and may cause a chain reaction. Conversely, if you start to overtake the rider in front, relieve your pedal pressure, sit up to pick up more wind, or move a little to the side. Once you lose enough speed, retract back into the line and resume the pedal smoothly.
Simple solutions for common pain, pain, tingling and discomfort
No. 62 If the pain is in front of the knee, raise your saddle in 2mm increments until the knee stops complaining. If you have back pain, please lower your seat.
No. 63 Hurts the neck? You will most likely be forced to the handlebars too far, so try a shorter stem or increase the railing by increasing the spacing under the stem.
No. 64 You may be too nervous if you have lower back pain, so try the same recommendations for treating neck pain. If these don’t work, you may have a difference in leg length
No. 65 Your hands may be too heavy if they are numb. Raise your handle or shorten your
No.66The simplest-and often overlooked try to use a belt, buckle, or loose shoelace (but still safe) to attach to a burning foot. Next, move your clamp back 2 mm or less, which will pressure the ball from your foot.
No. 67 Ensures that the saddle is straight. A lower handle can rotate your pelvis forward and downward, so try to lift it up with washers. Finally, test seats of different widths, lengths, stiffness and shapes. Your local bike store can help you measure the width of your seat bones and find the best saddle option for you.
No. 68 Mountain bikers who are just starting out can survive this level
When you reach the turning point, look back and look in the direction you want to go. You will be surprised how well your bike follows your head back.
No. 69 When is turning, stay away from the front brake and use the rear wheels when necessary. Try to do all the previous brakes.
No. 70 If turns left, go forward with your right foot (turn right and vice versa). If you start to fall inward, a powerful pedal stroke can make you stand up straight.
No. 71 If you have difficulty riding in a straight line, when you are riding at a speed of 10 to 15 miles per hour, focus your vision on the front about 20 feet, and extend this step by one foot for every additional mile. . This gives your body time to automatically correct changes on the road-naturally guiding you where you want to go, rather than constantly reacting to where you are already.
No. 72 Has a 15-second sprint every 30 minutes to break the long-distance running-it is better to train to increase the change to the monotonous rhythm, reduce the saddle pressure, stretch and relax your body.
No. 73 Resists the temptation to rush into the house after a cold, muddy or tough ride. Instead, use a hose to rinse your bike while it is still wet (when it can be cleaned most easily), dry any moving parts with a towel, and lubricate the chain. The whole process takes 5 to 10 minutes and can be completed after at least 30 minutes. (Do the same with your tools, including spraying with hoses to get the worst of mud and grit out, and save the washing machine in the process.)
No. 74 Ride like a jockey on rough railway crossings, bumpy roads, or any other roads that may cause levelling, damage to rims, or even crashes: stand up slightly with your bent knees and elbows, Let the bike float under you to absorb the shock.
No. 75 After grabbing the water bottle, don’t tilt your head to drink. Tilt the bottle and squeeze the water in. You will have more control.
No. 76 How long can you handle the incident? Most cyclists can run about three times the average riding distance (or time) without struggling to the point of collapse. (Please note that this is the “average ride”, not the “longest ever.”)
No. 77 For Rock Climbing , imagine riding through the paddling on a pedal, rather than simply going up and down. Try to use force horizontally through the bottom and top of the stroke.
No. 78 The key gear change that is stable, reliable, and damage-free. When you push hard, the moment you move the shift lever, your pedal pressure will be reduced. You need to lighten the load on the chain about one revolution so that it does not shrink, shrink, or possibly collapse. Then turn on the power again.
No. 79 Icky but effective: If you’re going to be doing a lot of riding in cold, windy weather, don’t clean your ears as often as usual. Removing the wax makes earaches more likely, because it exposes the inner ear to rushing air.
No. 80 Don’t take a day off before major events. If you need a complete rest while riding, do so two days ago, and then do a short ride in the afternoon before the race-including several sprints, to ensure that your body (and your bike) is very good. Good grease.
Stay stable during acceleration
No. 81 Holds the handlebar firmly, and the sag at the bend is slightly lower than normal (the distance between the deepest part of the curve and the tail is not exactly halfway).
No. 82 keep your elbows slightly bent to help you maintain a straight line.
No. 83 Every time strokes, pull down evenly on the handlebar.
No. 84 Don’t hold your breath-even in experienced riders, this is a common mistake in strenuous effort.
No. 85 Keep your head-another technique that often goes wrong, because it is natural, for some reason, your chin, look at the ground under your front wheels.
No. 86 If you feel that the wind is always bad for you, don’t blame yourself, think that your spirit is very weak-you are right. Research has shown that only those winds drawn around a cyclist within 160 degrees of an imaginary circle can help. Other winds of 200 degrees are not good for you.
No. 87 In order to optimally handle goods of 20 pounds or more, approximately 60% of the weight is placed on the rear seat or luggage rack, 35% on the front rack, and 5% in the handle bag.
No. 88 Safest headlights are set for night riding: aim the beam downwards (the distance is far enough to allow you to ride as fast as possible, and at the same time be able to see and respond to the changing environment in time). A second beam of light was emitted at eye level to attract their attention. (Of course, a tail light will be added.)
No. 89 Stretching on the bicycle helps reduce fatigue. Coast, put your left foot down, then lean to the right, stretch your back and left leg. Then do the right leg. You can also stretch your back to imitate the cat and cow yoga posture while stepping on it.
No. 90 In order to safely pass a turn with scattered sand or gravel, gently straighten your bike until you pass the loose object, and then continue the turn. Avoid braking or tilting excessively on loose surfaces. Move your weight back slightly to help the bike go straight.
No. 91 If you suffer from Achilles tendon pain, try to lift the saddle slightly, rotate it lightly, and see if the discomfort is relieved. Increasing the distance from the saddle to the pedal may seem illogical, but sometimes in the case of a low saddle, the cyclist’s foot is in such a horizontal position and the ankle is bent at a right angle, causing compression of the tendon. Lifting the saddle will make the foot a little bit downward, thereby more relaxing.
Be extra vigilant in these traffic situations, as this can lead to the three most common driving errors that can lead to collisions between cars and bicycles:
No. 92 When an oncoming car driver turns left in front of you, you are passing straight through an intersection.
No. 93 When the driver does not obey the stop sign and stops in front of you.
No. 94 When a car passes you, immediately turn right and cross your path.
No. 95 After adjusting the position of the saddle, the height of the handlebar, the length of the valve stem or the position of the splint, slight discomfort is normal when the body adapts to these changes. A short distance can resist the temptation to play violin again.
No. 96 The OTB of Peilan Vocabulary Lesson is “back-to-back”, which means you have been abandoned. OTF means “leave the front line”, which means you have already attacked. OTR is “on the rivet”. It comes from the tendency of the riders to advance on the saddle. In the saddle, the rivet used to be like this. The popular technique is “all to the right” in French. This means that the chain is on the farthest right gear and the farthest right chain link-the largest gear combination. This is an extension of another word, hard work.
No. 97 When you climb down from the saddle, if you feel that your body is shaking too much, shift gears harder. If you feel your bike swings excessively, it is easier to shift gears from side to side. These adjustments will give you an ideal balance of power and rhythm.
No. 98 to keep a bottle of water without freezing for a long time, riding in the cold, put it in your sweatshirt pocket, so that it can absorb some warmth from your body.
No. 99 Two simple (and most easily overlooked) methods to improve bicycle performance: Inflate the tires with the proper PSI before each ride to keep the chain stationary.
No. 100 Every time you put a new tire on your bike, use it as a signal to do an overlooked but important task: lubricate the quick release and install bolt threads on your car frame To prevent corrosion.
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